Croatian food changes as you move inland from the sea. The coast of Istria and Dalmatia eats like Italy and Greece, with seafood, olive oil, wine and grilled fish. Inland, around Zagreb and Slavonia, the cooking is Central European, with roast meats, paprika stews, strudels and pastries.

Coastal dishes

  • Peka: lamb, veal or octopus slow-cooked with potatoes under a bell-shaped iron lid covered in hot embers. It often has to be ordered a day ahead.
  • Crni rižot: black risotto coloured with cuttlefish or squid ink.
  • Pašticada: Dalmatia's festive dish of beef marinated in wine vinegar and slow-braised with prunes and wine, served with gnocchi.
  • Brudet: a fish stew of mixed fish cooked with tomato, wine and polenta.
  • Grilled fish: priced by the kilo in restaurants and simply dressed with olive oil, garlic and parsley, with blitva (chard and potatoes) on the side.

Istria

Istria, the peninsula in the northwest, is known for its truffles, both black and the prized white truffle found in the Motovun forest in autumn. Truffles are shaved over fuži pasta or scrambled eggs. Istrian olive oils regularly win international awards, and Malvazija white wine and Teran red are local specialities.

Inland dishes

  • Štrukli: the signature dish of Zagreb and the Zagorje region, thin pastry filled with fresh cheese, boiled or baked with cream. It is on the national list of protected intangible cultural heritage.
  • Kulen: spicy paprika sausage from Slavonia, protected by EU designation.
  • Purica s mlincima: roast turkey with mlinci, baked flatbread soaked in the roasting juices.
  • Čobanac: a spicy shepherd's stew of several meats with paprika.

Cheese and sweets

Paški sir, a hard sheep's cheese from the island of Pag, takes its flavour from sheep grazing on salty, herb-covered pastures. For dessert, try rožata (a Dubrovnik custard similar to crème caramel), fritule (small doughnuts eaten at Christmas) and kremšnita (custard cream slice) from Samobor.

Coffee culture

Coffee is the heart of Croatian social life. "Idemo na kavu" (let's go for coffee) is an invitation to sit, talk and people-watch for an hour or more. Cafés often serve only drinks, and nobody will hurry you. Ordering a coffee to go is rare.

Music and traditions

Klapa, a cappella singing from Dalmatia, is on UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage. Summer brings town festivals for patron saints, and the Sinjska alka, a knights' tournament held each August in Sinj since 1715, commemorates a victory over Ottoman forces.

Customs

  • Greet with a handshake; friends exchange two cheek kisses.
  • Croatians are proud of their region: Dalmatians, Istrians, Slavonians and Zagreb locals tease each other constantly.
  • Avoid casually comparing Croatia with Serbia or discussing the 1990s war unless your hosts raise it.
  • Many shops close on Sundays.
  • Tipping around 10% in restaurants is appreciated.

See our Croatia country guide for living costs, or read about moving to Croatia.