Indonesia's cuisine is as diverse as its 17,000 islands. The Spice Islands of Maluku once supplied the world's nutmeg and cloves, and spices remain at the heart of Indonesian cooking. Rice is eaten at almost every meal, and no table is complete without sambal, the fiery chilli paste that comes in hundreds of regional versions.

National favourites

  • Nasi goreng: fried rice with sweet soy sauce (kecap manis), shallots, garlic and chilli, topped with a fried egg and served with prawn crackers. It is eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
  • Mie goreng: the fried noodle equivalent.
  • Satay (sate): skewers of chicken, goat, beef or rabbit grilled over charcoal and served with peanut sauce or sweet soy.
  • Gado-gado: a Jakarta salad of blanched vegetables, tofu, tempeh, egg and potato with a rich peanut dressing.
  • Soto: a family of aromatic soups, such as soto ayam (chicken soup with turmeric), with different versions in every region.

Regional specialties

  • Rendang (West Sumatra): beef slow-cooked for hours in coconut milk and spices until dark and dry. Padang restaurants, found across the country, display dozens of dishes in their windows; you pay only for what you eat.
  • Gudeg (Yogyakarta): young jackfruit stewed in palm sugar and coconut milk.
  • Rawon (East Java): a black beef soup coloured with keluak nuts.
  • Babi guling (Bali): spit-roasted suckling pig stuffed with spices, a Balinese ceremonial dish. Pork is common in Hindu Bali but rare elsewhere in Muslim-majority Indonesia.
  • Ayam betutu (Bali): chicken or duck stuffed with spices, wrapped in banana leaves and slow-cooked.
  • Papeda (Papua and Maluku): sago porridge eaten with yellow fish soup.

Tempeh and tofu

Tempeh, fermented soybean cake, originated in Java and is an everyday protein, fried, stewed or made into crispy snacks. Indonesia is one of the world's largest consumers of soybeans for tempeh and tofu.

Warungs

Warungs, small family-run eateries, are where most Indonesians eat. A meal of nasi campur (rice with a selection of side dishes) typically costs a few dollars. Look for busy warungs with high turnover, and drink bottled or filtered water.

Coffee and drinks

Indonesia is one of the world's largest coffee producers, with beans from Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi, Bali and Flores. Kopi tubruk, coffee boiled with sugar and grounds left in the cup, is the traditional style. Kopi luwak, made from beans eaten by civets, is controversial because of animal welfare concerns. Es teh manis (sweet iced tea) is the default drink with meals.

Culture and etiquette

  • Use your right hand to eat, give and receive; the left hand is considered unclean.
  • Do not touch anyone's head, which is considered sacred.
  • Showing anger or raising your voice causes loss of face and rarely gets results.
  • Dress modestly outside beach areas, and cover shoulders and knees at religious sites. In Bali, wear a sarong and sash to enter temples.
  • Do not step on canang sari, the small palm-leaf offerings placed on Balinese pavements and shrines each day.
  • During Ramadan, be discreet about eating and drinking in public in Muslim areas.

Balinese traditions

Bali's Hindu culture shapes daily life, with ceremonies for temple anniversaries, full moons and life events. Nyepi, the Day of Silence that marks the Balinese new year, closes the island for 24 hours: no lights, travel or noise, and even the airport shuts. The night before, communities parade giant ogoh-ogoh demon effigies through the streets.

For costs of food and daily life, see our Indonesia country guide or our guide to moving to Indonesia.